Smoke and spices, tar and fruit, herbs and tannin; this 2004 Ovello Riserva Barbaresco from the Produttori del Barbaresco is as good as it gets. It was decanted for two hours because it was closed up and tight when first opened. It began to bloom after half an hour and then just kept getting better. It was a shame to see it gone, though there is one more in the cellar.
There was a grilled porterhouse steak finished with a splash of olive oil and some lemon zest, and there was fresh butternut squash gnocchi in a brown butter and sage sauce to go with the wine. Fantastic.
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco, Ovello Riserva. 14% alcohol and $50.