Even before the movie Sideways did a cinematic hatchet job on California Merlot it had almost disappeared from my thoughts. The wine had become a standard bearer along with Chardonnay for mass marketed, soulless, overblown wines.
For some reason last weekend I decided to try the varietal again and a bottle of the 2006 Clos du Val Napa Valley Merlot made its way into the shopping cart. The wine is only 77% Merlot, with 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7 % Cabernet Franc blended in for good measure.
There was a rib steak fresh off the grill when the cork came out of the wine. Dark fruit, maybe a red plum or two, and soft oak aromas were in the nose. The color was more medium and not inky black. The taste was a nice play between some cassis and some red cherries with some warm spice and a little bit of earth mixed in for good measure. Very good acid in this red wine and some soft tannin to give it a little structure. Nice mouth feel, since it wasn't heavy or overbearing. There was some good length to the finish. It was a more than acceptable match for the steak as it was almost refreshing to take a sip of the wine after a bite of the meat. The higher than expected acid was a big plus here.
We stoppered the bottle and put half away for two day. There was a small veal, loin roast that was pan seared, then finished in the oven. The veal was sauced with a mushroom broth, stock, mustard, Worcestershire sauce with a few other ingredients thrown in to the mix. The Clos du Val had lost any sharp edges it had and had settled down to a mellow, flavorful, balanced friend to the veal.
This wine won't blow anyone away but for $19 it's a more than acceptable table wine with some character to it. It doesn't taste like California Merlot. 13.5% alcohol.
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