Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Kinkead Ridge, New Releases

One of the best parts of late May is the annual release of wines by wineries in southwest Ohio. Yesterday was no exception as a number of them released their wines, and among the group was Kinkead Ridge with the release of their white wines from 2010. There wasn't much of it but it was worth the drive to Ripley OH to pick up a case, especially considering that the 2009 vintage was so poor that most of the whites were on the second label and there was no Riesling at all.

Revelation is a blend of the estate's white varieties, including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and other white varieties. To my palate there seemed to be more sauvignon blanc in the mix this vintage since I got a greater then usual impression of herbs and fresh cut grass in the glass. The wine was citrusy and had a mineral quality similar to a French white from the Savoie. The wine had an austere and crisp quality to it that I liked. 14.8% alcohol and $13.95. 67 cases produced.

The Kinkead Riesling is usually my favorite white from this winery, but not this year. The wine was very reserved and not forthcoming with much in the nose. After some swirling there was a floral bouquet that began to peek out. Light and crisp on the tongue the apple tastes were dominant but balanced by a little residual sugar, 1.2%. I liked the wine, but this year it wasn't my favorite. Considering it has only been in the bottle for only a week or so I will put mine away for six months and try it again this autumn. 11.8% alcohol and $11.95. 82 cases produced.

The Viognier / Rousanne was distinctly different this vintage and was far and away my favorite. The last several vintages this wine were predominantly Viognier but in this vintage it was predominantly Rousanne. There was much more of a white peach and pear element to the wine and less of the orange and citrus quality. The oily viscosity was still there - this is a wine that coats the mouth. That unctuousness was balanced with great acidity and this wine had by far the longest finish of any of the white wines. For me this is the best vintage ever for this wine and maybe the best white ever from Kinkead. I liked the way it tasted and I loved the mouth feel and refreshing finish. Time will tell. 15.1% alcohol and $15.95. 124 cases produced.

By way of comparison, the 2010 vintage is 42% Viognier, the 2009 was 79% Viognier and the 2008 was 57% Viognier, with the balance being Rousanne. Those figures probably explain the difference with past vintages. Come fall it may be time for a vertical tasting on this wine since I have five vintages in the cellar.

There was one more wine released, this one under the second label - River Village Cellars. The wine was a 2010 Traminette, a Gewurztraminer cross. This wine was finished at 2.6% residual sugar. It wasn't my cup of tea but it is no doubt a wine that sells well in the Ohio market, and profit keeps the wineries in business.

The bad news - for those of you looking for these wines they are only available at the winery this vintage since there was so little produced.

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