Saturday, February 2, 2013
One Last Dolcetto
There was one last Dolcetto that was purchased a couple of weeks ago in a mixed case of wine. The third one was a Luciano Sandrone 2010 Dolcetto D'Alba. The other two discussed below were the 2010 Domenico Clerico Visadi and the Aldo Conterno Masante. All three are top end producers of Barolo, but their Dolcettos are affordable and approachable as youngsters.
The Sandrone was the most closed of the three, and even after two hours of exposure to air it was still wound up pretty tight. I decanted the entire bottle but the put two thirds back in the bottle and put in the vacuum seal and pump. The first two glasses were earth dominated with just some hints of fruit. There was quite a bit of drying tannin and with a small steak it was still a tough wine.
Two days later the remainder of the bottle was wonderful. The fruit came forward and the tannin softened. The blueberries and strawberries were singing here. The wine was still firm, but there was an underlying elegance that matched well with some braised long ribs of beef. We spent the evening with the wine and the last few sips were the best. In the end was was my favorite of the three.
2010 Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto D'Alba. 13% alcohol and $18. The candle was a gift.