Morels

There were first of the season morels in the market today. They are expensive but they certainly were delicious sauteed in some butter and then served with some fresh pasta in a light shallot, tarragon and cream sauce. Roasted asparagus spears provided some additional spring taste and color.  A completely satisfying meal.

Chablis

With the grey sole discussed below being a traditional French recipe I opted for a French wine - a 2008 Christian Moreau Chablis.  Good choice.

Clear and bright in the glass with no yellowing the wine still smelled fresh and tart.  The first sip hit the tongue with acid and citrus, then moved into a richness on the side of the tongue with flavors of sweet apple and fresh, green grapes.  Full and long flavors that paired particularly well with the simple richness and sweetness in the fish.  There was a slight saltiness to the finish and at the very end there was an aroma of the raindrops on dry limestone.  Great wine for a fair price, but sadly my last bottle from this particular vintage, though I do have some premier and grand cru from the same producers in the cellar.

2008 Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis.  12.5% alcohol and $21.

Semi-Local

The produce in the market is "working its way north."  Yesterday there was rainbow chard from about 150 miles south of here.  Considering how winter has refused to leave having anything from this close is remarkable and delicious.  It was sauteed in some olive oil and garlic and then steamed with the moisture on the leaves until wilted, then uncovered until the water evaporated.  Some salt, a little pepper and a splash of lemon juice and it was finally spring.

There was also fresh grey sole in the market and it was poached in white wine and shallots in the oven for eight minutes and then the pan juices were reduced with olive oil and lemon juice, capers and parsley.   Quick, easy, low calorie and tasty.    Wine later.

Best $9 Bottle in the Market?

Along with the calamari discussed below I opened a 2010 Perrin Nature Cotes du Rhone. This is the newest wine in the Perrin line which starts at the top with Chateau Beaucastel, one of the best Chateauneuf du Papes. This wine used organically grown grapes and used no chemicals in the vineyard.

It had a rustic nose of grapes, white pepper and earth.  The aromas here shouted that this was not a polished wine with any delusions - it was just good drinking wine.  The color was dark and the body medium.  Great forward fruit of berries and cherries, and there was just enough tannin to keep it honest.  Medium length to the finish.  Good acid that was in balance with everything else.  Nothing remarkable here other than a good, honest, inexpensive wine that was great with the calamari.  Perfect wine for pasta with red sauce.

2010 Perrin Nature Cotes du Rhone. 12.5% alcohol and $9. 

Calamari

Quick, easy and delicious meal last night featuring calamari. Pine nuts, chili flakes and red currants were sauteed briefly in some olive oil.  When the pine nuts were golden I added capers, marinara sauce and half cooked Israeli couscous.  After three minutes of simmering in went freshly sliced rings of calamari, and less than a minute later dinner was ready.  The only addition was the salad of fresh lettuces and sliced red onion dressed with vinegar and oil and few sliced scallions on top of the calamari.  Health food never tasted so good.

Wine later.

Very Petit Chablis?

To go with the halibut dinner in the post below this one I opened a new wine to me, a 2009 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Kimmeridgien from Jean Marc Brocard.  Brocard produces a number of Chablis but this wine comes from just outside that area, but still grown in the Kimmeridgien limestone that is the hallmark of Chablis. 

The freshness, tartness and minerality of Chablis were all present, though dialed back somewhat.  This is a lighter wine but still had a sense of place that makes me love wines from this region.  Crisp apple flavors, bits of limestone and a light and fresh body.  The fish was rich and would have stood up to a much heavier wine, but there was no question that it went great with this wine as well.   Nice surprise.

2009 Jean Marc Brocard Bourgogne Kimmeridgien Chardonnay.  12.5% alcohol and a bargain at $15.

2013 Halibut

I don't usually vintage date my fish, but this time I will make an exception.  The first of the wild caught, Alaskan halibut showed up in the market this past weekend.  It's one of the sure signs of spring to me. 

It was pan seared and then shoved in a very hot oven for four minutes to get to a perfect medium rare state and finished with just a squeeze of lemon.  The spinach was wilted in a bit of butter and the water remaining after washing it in cold water and lightly drying it.  It too got a squeeze of lemon.  The tomato was a locally produce hydroponic Roma style and there was a bit of local goat cheese that found a home on top of the tomatoes. 

The entire meal was fresh and clean and simple and a perfect antidote to the winter that doesn't want to end in this area.  Wine notes later.