This past weekend was the release date for the 2013 vintage of white wines from Kinkead Ridge in Ripley, Ohio. The wines were superb but it was a bittersweet weekend. Briefly, thanks to the devastatingly cold winter in this area there will be no 2014 vintage estate wines. The cold was too severe and the damage too extensive to allow production of estate wines this year. Parts of the vineyard must be replaced and the remainder needs to heal and recover.
The good news is that the 2013 white wines are delicious. My impressions follow, starting with the estate wines.
Viognier- Roussanne. This year's blend is just about perfect for me with 71% of the blend being the Viognier. There are citrus zest aromas and flavors of orange peel, melon and kiwi. My first impression was that this wine seemed lighter than some of the other recent ones, but the more proper word is probably "lithe." It is still a full flavored wine but this vintage has a grace and suppleness to it that I very much liked. Unquestionably the best of a very good bunch. 14.1% alcohol and $17. 257 cases produced.
White Revelation. This wine changes every year also and this particular vintage was definitely different than the previous vintages. This wine is a blend of various white grapes. For this vintage there is a much greater percentage of chardonnay and much less sauvignon blanc so it seems a little richer. Great notes of pineapple and tart, green grapes. There is a wonderfully dry finish with limestone hints and a good length. 13.3% alcohol and $14. A true bargain. 146 cases produced.
Riesling. It's been two years since there was enough grapes to make this wine so I was very happy to see it back in the lineup. This is like biting into a fresh, cold yellow or green apple. There's a bit of lime here also and just enough sweetness at the end to make you take another sip. It's very light in the mouth but leaves a smile on your face. My experience with this wine is that it always tastes better after a year in the bottle - it seems to pick up weight and flavor and I think this one will also. 11.4% alcohol. 1.2% residual sugar. A steal at $12. 179 cases produced.
And from the second label....
River Village Cellars Seyval, McCafferty Bridge Vineyard. This wine is from a hybrid grape and reminds most of a Muscadet from the Loire. Sharp, tart, refreshing and full of green apple and citrus flavors and that great aroma of cold rain dripping on limestone. There's not an ounce of pretension in this wine and it is plain fun to drink. Find a hot summer day, throw a couple of ice cubes in the glass, add a few drops of cassis or framboise (or just toss in a couple fresh, very ripe raspberries) and fill the glass with this wine. Definite summer treat. 13.8% alcohol. $10. 87 cases produced.
River Village Cellars Traminette, MacCafferty Bridge Vineyard. A hybrid with Gewurztraminer as one of its parents, this is a sweet wine with spiciness of the Gewurztraminer but a little more fruit. Well made and good, but not favorite. 13.2% alcohol. 2.1% residual sugar. $10. 185 cases produced.
A great group of wines and that makes it even sadder that there will be none next year.
The photo of the vineyard was taken several year ago in the fall, just before picking began.
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